Friday, 24 December 2004
I'm sitting in a Bangkok hotel at the moment, enjoying the cool evening breeze through the window, and the sound of frogs outside.
The last few weeks have been a busy time of touring around Singapore, Malaysia and now Thailand. So far I've been travelling with my family (all 8 of us) and have visited family friends, tourist attractions and a host of locations further off the beaten track. With another week of travel around Thailand in store I hope to see something of central and northern Thailand. After that I'll say goodbye to the family and stay on in the far North of Thailand for my Elective placement.
But now, an update on a my trip to date. Enjoy!
Behind Bars in the "Land of Smiles"
Bangkok - a bustiling metropolis with less than perfect air, but a warm welcome to the "land of smiles" from its 6 million inhabitants. Called "Krung Thep" (City of Angels) by the Thais, its official name is actually much longer - 15 words in all. It is a pot of gold for travellers, with everything from exquisite markets, fascinating Buddhist temples, museums and plenty of entertainment to keep the visitor occupied.
However, my first day in Bangkok showed me a very different side to this "City of Angels" - by way of a trip into a Bangkok prison. Bangkok's prisons are infamous the world over as hell on earth. Many books describing the horror within have been published, and shocking stories from inside continue to leak out. Thankfully my visit, while inside the imposing walls and razor wire, was on the the friendlier side of the bars - I was visiting an Australian prisoner.
I'd found out about Thai prisons, and opportunities to visit prisoners, from a website devoted to prisoner support (www.phaseloop.com/foreignprisoners). Having never attempted anything like this, it was with some nervousness I set about attempting a visit. Nonetheless, after locating Klong Prem prison, and working through the necessary papers from officialdom, I found myself looking through a wire grate at the man I'd come to see. Mark Beatton - a 23yo Caucasian guy, looking disturbingly like any other young Aussie bloke. For the next 40 minutes we chatted about family, Thailand, Australian, cricket, and plans for the future.
Mark left his home in Brisbane for Bangkok at the age of 18, to teach English to Primary aged children. He quickly grew to love teaching, love Thailand and love the Thai people. However, after living and working in Bangkok for almost a year, Mark fell foul of the law - landing a 10 year prison sentance. In just under 2 years time he will be eligible for transfer back to Australia to complete the remainder of his sentance closer to family and friends.
While Mark divulged little about conditions inside, a few things came through clearly. Firstly, his stoic face masked a tormented soul. He has recently been transferred to the prison hospital for care regarding "stress". Other prisoners have shut themselves off from outside completely, isolation being their only way of coping.
Mark is also intensely lonely. While he has friends among fellow prisoners, his contact with anyone outside is extremely limited. During the last five years he has not seen his parents, and his siblings only once. A local Ex-Aussie publican visits occaisionally, and embassy officials stop by monthly, but apart from these visits he spends his days in the four walls of his prison block. Even our visit today was marred by a heavy iron grill - making any real conversation very difficult. He enjoys visits and letters - extra precious as there are so few. So if you could make time to drop him a postcard (or letter, Xmas card, newspaper clippings etc) I've included his address below.
Despite the obvious hardship Mark is holding up well. He still loves Thailand and the Thai people and hopes one day to return to teach English again. My visit with Mark has opened my eyes to a whole new world - freedom is not to be taken lightly.
To find out more about prisoners all around the world visit www.phaseloop.com/foreignprisoners. Read about prisons, individual prisoners and use the opportunity to bring some hope in a prisoner's life.
Highlights from Singapore and Malaysia
Prior to arriving in Bangkok, I spent two weeks touring Singapore and the Malay Peninsula with my family. Here are a few highlights.
Durian - this popular football-sized fruit is an icon throughout South-East Asia. They are banned on trains and enclosed places - not because of their spikes or weapon potential (though this I could fully appreciate) - but because of their pungent smell. I made a mistake of sampling Durian icecream - it was hours before my taste buds purged themselves of the potent odour. But, if the saying "when durians come down, the sarongs go up" holds any truth - they are evidently a potent aphrodesiac!
Sentosa - this island resort of the coast of Singapore is a haven for Singaporeans and foreigners alike. The picture perfect beaches are truly breathtaking - until one falls through their hollow rocks and realises that the rainforest and beaches are all 100% imported. It still remains a very relaxing escape from the heat and bustle of the Singapore mainland.
Malaysia - my visit to Malaysia was prompted by family history. My paternal grandfather spent the majority of his working life here, working as an engineer in the rubber industry. Hence, my father did all his early schooling at a Malay school in Kuala Lumpur. So on this visit I had the opportunity of visiting his childhood home - and hearing his excited giggle as he showed us were he gotup to kiddy mischief.
Cameron Highlands - this area in the centre of the Malay Peninsula is the highest part of the country. A jungle walk one morning took me up through lush rainforest to the peak of one of the mountains. The top was shrouded in wet cloud - reminscent of scenes from "Gorillas in the Mist". With tea plantations, flower farms and vegetable gardens scattered throughout the cool highland area, CH is the perfect escape from Malaysia's dirt and heat. It is also home to the indigenous Asli tribal group, whose woodwork and carvings sell well at town markets.ConclusionsThat's it from me. I hope you have enjoyed my short rendition of my trip thus far. Thanks for your emails - sorry if I cannot reply personally for some time. Feel free to pass this on to others who are interested.
In love.
Hamish
Email: http://by103fd.bay103.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/compose?mailto=1&msg=7C412622-85E1-4D8E-BDCB-4917820A8B07&start=0&len=10376&src=&type=x&to=hamish_hammer_graham@hotmail.com&cc=&bcc=&subject=&body=&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000001&a=dab7afb5abe55ff3d3545f8437d60485
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