21.7.05

Elcho 1 - Welcome to the Island

It’s been an exciting first week up here in the TopEnd of the Northern Territory. After a few relaxing days in Darwin I flew out to Elcho Island, where I’ve begun work at the local Health Centre. The weather is a gorgeous 30 degrees, with clear blue skies, long sandy beaches, and a crystal sea. Not bad for a university placement!

I’ll email out a few letters to you during my 6 weeks here. Enjoy reading! If you’d like, you can drop me a line. My contact details are included below.

Address: c/o Ngalkanbuy Health Service, Galiwin’ku, Elcho Island, NT 0822
Ph: (08) 8970 5105 [home] or (08) 8987 9031 [work]
NB: no mobile coverage

Elcho Island
Elcho Island lies off the coast of NE Arnhem Land – a couple of hours by plane from Darwin. It is home to around 2000 local Yolnu (Aboriginal) people, most of whom are scattered throughout the “Homelands” in small groups. I’m located at Galiwin’ku, the main town at the southern tip of the island and home to the island’s limited services: Health Centre, general store, 3 takeaway shops, Council office, church, child-care and airport. I live in a little blue house only 100m from the Health Centre, 5 minutes walk to the shops and less than 10 minutes walk to the closest beach.

Ngalkanbuy Health Service
Ngalkanbuy Health Service is based out of the small but well-run clinic here in Galiwin’ku. I work alongside 1 doctor, 3 nurses and 5 (Aboriginal) health workers –trained locals who act as nursing assistants, interpreters and cultural aids. Services are limited, but with great variety. Most days we have at least 1 patient flown out to larger hospitals at Gove or Darwin for higher level care.

I have quickly discovered that initiative is the key to working out here. Unfortunately, initiative has been rather successfully bred out of me through Med school. But, as I bumble my way through doctor jobs, nursing jobs, cleaning jobs and other random jobs I am pleased to discover that while my initiative has atrophied, it is not completely dead. (-:

Men’s Health Sexpert
As the only male health worker here I have the privilege(?) of seeing any guys with ‘sensitive’ issues. This has necessitated me being quickly brought up to speed on the diagnosis, treatment and follow-up of sexually transmitted infections (STIs). It has also tested my inter-cultural communication skills as I’ve tried to counsel Yolnu blokes on STIs, condoms etc. Of course, I can always resort to a bit of footy-talk to break the ice before launching into the sex-talk!

Aboriginal Health
As you’re probably aware, the health of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander (ATSI) Australians is appalling. The current ATSI health crisis is unparalleled to any other developed country. With a segment of out population living in such 3rd world conditions, Australia draws better comparisons with developing countries such as India.

In the past decade, ATSI infant mortality rates have dropped somewhat, but ATSI kids are still 3 times more likely to die than non-ATSI kids! Meanwhile, adult health has actually worsened! ATSI Australians die more than 20 years earlier than the national average – and the gap is growing! Compared to other indigenous populations, such as the New Zealand Maoris, ATSI health is about 30 years behind. Compared to non-ATSI Australians, ATSI health is 100 years behind.

Yet despite the need, the Commonwealth spends less per capita on ATSI health compared to the rest of the Australian population – 74 cents spent on ATSI people for every $1 spent on non-ATSI people!?! According to a comprehensive report on ATSI health by the Australian Medical Association (AMA) in 2002, we know what to do and even have good plans – but simply lack the will to implement them.

But what do these statistics and numbers really mean to the people and communities themselves? Hopefully over coming weeks I’ll get some idea of the answers to that question. And I’ll eagerly share my discoveries and thoughts with you - watch this space.

The Yolnu People
The locals here are great value – very friendly and relaxed. I’m reveling in the waves and smiles I get from complete strangers throughout town. The joys of country life! English is a 3rd, 4th or 5th language for them – a Yolnu dialect being their 1st language. But despite this, most speak English quite well and I am keen to show my interest in learning Yolnu (a few words at least).

Already my limited understanding of their culture has convinced me that they are at least as different culturally from me to any community I’ve visited in India, SE Asia or Europe. I have much to learn! One early lesson has been regarding cultural aspects of death and funerals. You may know that the name of whomever has “passed on” will not be spoken, nor will pictures or other images be viewed. Furthermore, anyone who has the same name will change his or her name for a period of time (sometimes years). A funeral is currently proceeding, bringing up new cultural issues for me every day, and I am sure to discover much as it concludes over the next few days.

Plans
I’ve settled into the clinic routine remarkably quickly and look forward to immersing myself in the varied everyday medical experience out here. Other hopes and plans include:
· Visiting communities out in the Homelands
· Meeting the Traditional Land Owners
· Going bush – maybe even some hunting and fishing
· Playing basketball and footy with some local guys
· Lots of beach and swimming (though perhaps not with old croc)